The following information is a guide to feeding and general care of your puppy and is supplied

 to help you and puppy adjust to your new life together.


WORMING  your puppy



Begin your puppy on heartworm medication at 10 weeks and he/she will need to be on this for the rest of his/her life.

You will need to consult with your vet at your pups' 2nd vaccination as there are a number of products available & your vet

can help you choose the one which best suits your circumstances.


Hook, round, whip, flea tapeworm & hydatid tapeworm

Your puppy will need to be wormed every 2 weeks until it is 3 months of age and then every month until 

it is 6 months of age. Drontal or Popantel is recommended & is dosed by weight & can be purchased from your vet.


VACCINATING  your puppy


Your puppy has been vaccinated at 6-8 weeks of age with a C3 injection as shown on the accompanying record card.  

You can discuss upgrading the vaccines with your vet when you take the pup back for his/her booster.  

Your puppy’s next vaccination is shown on the card.............


N.B.  Your puppy will not be fully covered against disease until he/she has had her 2nd vaccination.  

This means he/she should not be allowed in areas where other dogs have been.

This includes his/her first visit to the vet for the 2nd vaccination.  

Carry your pup, don’t put them down on the ground or seats & make sure the treatment table 

has been properly cleaned.  Remember, sick dogs go to the vet.  It is up to you to protect your new baby.


FEEDING  your puppy


It is strongly recommended that you continue feeding your pup on the Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy biscuits.  

It is important not to change your puppy’s diet too quickly.  Your puppy’s tummy needs time to adjust to any changes in 

order to prevent any upsets, eg. diarrhoea, so introduce new things gradually.  The change over should be completed over a week.  

If your pup does have gastric, only feed biscuits & water for a day or two.

If problem persists consult your vet.

Your dog needs to stay on this diet for 18 months until his/her skeletal system is established.





Please do keep you puppy on just biscuits for the first couple of weeks until 

he/she has settled into thenew home as their tummies can be a little sensitive 

after their change of circumstances.


Your puppy is used to eating:  (*This diet is based on amount given to an 8 week old pup)


Breakfast  1/2 cup (1 full coffee mug) of Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy Biscuits(can be purchased from your vet or Pet Store.

 Mix with little warm water.

Puppy is already used to egg yolk & Greek Natural Yoghurt being added to his/her food on alternate days, once a day.

As puppy gets older you can add other ingredients slowly. ie. one new ingredient per week so you can see if pupppy 

has a negative reaction, before moving onto another ingredient.

*Approximately 3/4 biscuits to 1/4 other ingredients as a guide (most of the needed nutrition comes from good quality biscuits)

Lunch      1/2 cup Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy Biscuits & add any of the following; sm.amount cooked pasta or rice, grated cheese (sparingly), Natural yoghurt (acidophilus), chopped raw vegetables, egg yolk

Dinner:    As per breakfast.


                  Once your pupppy has reached 6 months of age you can introduce raw chicken necks & brisket bones.

A teaspoon of molasses will help their coat.

NB.  Please ensure that the raw minced chicken frame, or any other chicken product that you may use 

eg. necks, is  FROZEN FIRST.   

This will ensure that most of the harmful bacteria that is commonly found in chicken is destroyed.


                 Never give cooked food to your dog as there is very little nutrition in home

                 cooked food & your dog will suffer the consequences.                                                        

Cooked bones are dangerous as the can splinter inside your dog &/or cause

a compacted bowel.   Very painful experience for the pup & expensive for you at the vet.


Always have a fresh supply of water freely available

Serve all food at room temperature

Reduce to two meals per day at around 12 weeks of age. By 6 Months of age one meal per day is sufficient.

Make sure that the pup always has a thin layer of fat covering the ribs.

From around 9 - 12 months of age (at which time the dog will have reached its’ full height & length), it is important NOT to let your Labrador start becoming overweight but a healthy dog will be well covered (i.e. a thin layer of fat over the ribs).

If you do allow your pup to become obese, it will adversely affect the skeletal system & joints irreparably.


Is it recommended that you visit your veterinary clinic every couple of months to keep an eye on your puppies weight.



F    6 months  =  up to 15kg       12 months = up to 25kg       2 years = up to 30kg

M   6 months =  up to 20kg        12 months = up to 30kg       2 years = up to 35kg





We STRONGLY recommend Bravecto !!!

Ticks mostly occur around the face & chest area (check eyelids, lips, inside ears etc) but can occur anywhere on the body including between the toes SO CHECK THOROUGHLY.

If you live in a tick area & your pup goes off his/her food or starts to wobble in the back legs or behaves as if choking GO STRAIGHT TO YOUR VET.








During colder whether only bath on a sunny day & in the morning.  If your pup stays wet & gets 

cold you will have a sick puppy on your hands.

Only use Shampoos & Conditioners specifically designed for puppies as human products can cause

skin upsets due to different ph levels.  Skin problems can cost you an arm & a leg at your vet.

If you follow our recommendation of Bravecto you will only need to use mild products such as  

Aloveen Shampoo & Conditioner, a lovely product based on oatmeal.

Do not use harsh metal brushes on your pups’ tender skin.  He/she is only a baby.

Do not over bath your puppy or you will wash out all the naturally occurring oils.

Only bath in lukewarm water & be careful not to get water/shampoo in ears & eyes.

Dry off well, especially around face, behind & inside ears, under arms  to prevent chills.

Have fun, keep talking to him/her, reassure the pup that all is well.  Never scold the pup.


PUPPY PRE SCHOOLS,   run by reputable veterinary clinics, are strongly encouraged. 

This not only provides basic training but also continuing socialisation skills which are so necessary to your 

pups’ overall welfare & to become a valued member of your family.

It is also a lot of fun for you!


Your pup only has 60% coverage against Parvo after the 1st vaccination & puppies come from lots of

different kennels/areas to preschool.  If just one has the Parvo viris the whole class will contract this incidious

& deadly disease.

Puppy will have nearly 100% coverage if your vet administers the Norivac Triennial vaccine at 10 weeks.

Whereas a normal C3 vaccine will only cover 80% after the 2nd vaccination.

Remember, in any case, you must wait at least one full week after each vaccination for it to take affect.





  As joints of growing pups are easily injured, until your pup is at least 18 months of age:


  1. Never let your puppy jump from a height higher than it’s own shoulder height.

  2. Be careful of stairs.  A pup can easily break a leg if he/she falls off or through a    


  3. Never let your puppy jump into or out of a car or trailer.

  4. Do not run your puppy ragged.  Just a little walk or run is fine.

  5. Never pick up your puppy with his/her front legs.  Place one hand under rump &  

      the other under the pups’ chest to lift.

  6. Avoid repetitive play that causes your puppy to run & brake (such as fetching a ball) as

      this can cause repetitive strain injury to your pups’ tender joints & damage them for


  7. When taking the dog to the park or beach etc.  ALWAYS  have the dog on a lead to prevent 

him/her bounding around unrestrained. 

      Keep you pup off the soft sand as it gives way under their feet & can cause straining on the joints.  

      Wet sand is ok.


Puppies are like toddlers, they have lots of energy, are fearless & clumsy so can easily get themselves 

into difficulty, so it is up to us to be responsible for their

development & safety.





If your puppy begins a habit of biting or mouthing the hand etc of a particular family member, 

use strong vocal discipline, ie. Short, loud, gruff, deep ‘NO’.  This can lead to dominance behaviour 

as the pup gets older if not dealt with early.

Rather than offering puppy an open hand of fingers, make a fist & if pup bites say NO or AA or SS (whatever 

your noise is).

If pup continues to bite give a gently but sharp tap on the nose & when puppy starts to lick, PRAISE using his/her



Make sure that no member of the family is counteracting the discipline by encouraging the 

wrong type of play & sending the pup mixed messages.




The paperwork you have filled out will be sent to the Animal Registry on your behalf & you will 

then receive a fresh set with the dog legally in your name.

This fresh set of paperwork should be taken to your local council before the pup is 6 months of age 

so that the pup is registered. 

This is a legal requirement.

You will receive a fresh set of Microchip paperwork from the Registry with you attached to the microchip

on the database as the pups' legal owner.

If you have followed our recommendation & have had your puppy desexed at 5 months of age, you

will need to take this paperwork, along with the sterilisation certificate from the vet, to council & your 

registration fee will be much cheaper for you.





We strongly recommend that you desex your puppy, we advise that this be done at 5 months of age.


YOUR PEDIGREE PAPERWORK will be posted to you when it it processed by the Canine Council.


We would appreciate a call from you within the first few days of taking your new

Puppy home so that we know he/she is settling in well for you.


If you have any concerns, please contact us immediatley so we can advise you the way forward.



                   ie. Toilet training


Often the first question we are asked when clients bring a young puppy for training is 

'What is the secret of successful house training. They have tried smacking the pup when 

it wets in the house, rubbing its nose in its droppings, and putting paper down on the laundry 

floor ­all to no avail.  There are no magic remedies, but there is a simple and effective teaching

process which will bring about speedy results.

The need to urinate or defecate is as natural a function for dogs as it is for humans.  

It takes a long time to toilet train a baby, yet puppies are expected to know what to do 

almost immediately!  At eight weeks old a puppy has little bladder or bowel control but 

it will develop them rapidly over the next couple of months.  To teach or condition a puppy

to eliminate in a correct area we need to know two things, that is, the natural behaviour of 

wolves and dogs.

Remember that if we reinforce or reward a response such as urinating outside with something 

which is important to the puppy such as a piece of food, then the puppy will tend to respond by 

urinating outside again when it is stimulated by a full bladder.

House training should start the moment you arrive home with your puppy so that you avoid 

having any 'accidents' right from the beginning.  We suggest that you start before you even 

enter the house by taking the puppy to the area you want it to use.  Let it explore the area and,

 if it obliges buy urinating or defecating, praise it and give it a small piece of food. 

Incidentally the spot that you choose for the toilet area should not be too far from the 

house as you wouldn’t want to walk too far on cold wet nights!


Now take your pup inside and follow these instructions:

1.      Set your watch or alarm clock to ring in one hour.  When the time is up, walk your puppy 

outside to 'the same area' and stay there for five minutes or so.  If it urinates or defecates, praise it

 and give it a small piece of food, then take it inside and set your alarm for another hour, and so on.  

If your puppy does not oblige during the five minute period, take it inside but go out ten minutes later 

and keep doing this until your patience is rewarded.  You will quickly work out your puppy's own rhythm.

2.      Also, take the puppy out as soon as it wakens from sleep, after eating or drinking and when it has 

been chewing on a toy or after prolonged play.

3.      Watch its body language carefully for any signs which may indicate a need to go out.  

Circling and sniffing are often signs that it wants to go to the toilet.




***  We welcome any comments on our Guestbook page at;










  • "Thank you Rosebird Kennels for our wonderful Molly the Westie, she had a shaky start but thanks to the care given here by Nerida, she is now a very active and happy dog. We loo..."
    Margaret Ainsworth
  • "We got our chocolate labrador, Coco, from Nerrida 8 years ago. She is such a loved member of our family and she could still win a labrador beauty contest. She has a calm tempera..."
    happy customer
  • "We count ourselves very fortunate to have one of Nerrida's beautiful black Labrador pups! We've now had our gorgeous girl Kuro for 3 weeks. We live in Canberra, so our first ..."