The following information is a guide to feeding and general care of your puppy and is supplied
to help you and puppy adjust to your new life together.
WORMING your puppy
Begin your puppy on heartworm medication at 10 weeks and he/she will need to be on this for the rest of his/her life.
You will need to consult with your vet at your pups' 2nd vaccination as there are a number of products available & your vet
can help you choose the one which best suits your circumstances.
Hook, round, whip, flea tapeworm & hydatid tapeworm
Your puppy will need to be wormed every 2 weeks until it is 3 months of age and then every month until
it is 6 months of age. Drontal or Popantel is recommended & is dosed by weight & can be purchased from your vet.
VACCINATING your puppy
Your puppy has been vaccinated at 6-8 weeks of age with a C3 injection as shown on the accompanying record card.
You can discuss upgrading the vaccines with your vet when you take the pup back for his/her booster.
Your puppy’s next vaccination is shown on the card.............
N.B. Your puppy will not be fully covered against disease until he/she has had her 2nd vaccination.
This means he/she should not be allowed in areas where other dogs have been.
This includes his/her first visit to the vet for the 2nd vaccination.
Carry your pup, don’t put them down on the ground or seats & make sure the treatment table
has been properly cleaned. Remember, sick dogs go to the vet. It is up to you to protect your new baby.
FEEDING your puppy
It is strongly recommended that you continue feeding your pup on the Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy biscuits.
It is important not to change your puppy’s diet too quickly. Your puppy’s tummy needs time to adjust to any changes in
order to prevent any upsets, eg. diarrhoea, so introduce new things gradually. The change over should be completed over a week.
If your pup does have gastric, only feed biscuits & water for a day or two.
If problem persists consult your vet.
Your dog needs to stay on this diet for 18 months until his/her skeletal system is established.
Please do keep you puppy on just biscuits for the first couple of weeks until
he/she has settled into thenew home as their tummies can be a little sensitive
after their change of circumstances.
Your puppy is used to eating: (*This diet is based on amount given to an 8 week old pup)
Breakfast 1/2 cup (1 full coffee mug) of Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy Biscuits(can be purchased from your vet or Pet Store.
Mix with little warm water.
Puppy is already used to egg yolk & Greek Natural Yoghurt being added to his/her food on alternate days, once a day.
As puppy gets older you can add other ingredients slowly. ie. one new ingredient per week so you can see if pupppy
has a negative reaction, before moving onto another ingredient.
*Approximately 3/4 biscuits to 1/4 other ingredients as a guide (most of the needed nutrition comes from good quality biscuits)
Lunch 1/2 cup Blackhawk Chicken & Rice Puppy Biscuits & add any of the following; sm.amount cooked pasta or rice, grated cheese (sparingly), Natural yoghurt (acidophilus), chopped raw vegetables, egg yolk
Dinner: As per breakfast.
Once your pupppy has reached 6 months of age you can introduce raw chicken necks & brisket bones.
A teaspoon of molasses will help their coat.
NB. Please ensure that the raw minced chicken frame, or any other chicken product that you may use
eg. necks, is FROZEN FIRST.
This will ensure that most of the harmful bacteria that is commonly found in chicken is destroyed.
Never give cooked food to your dog as there is very little nutrition in home
cooked food & your dog will suffer the consequences.
Cooked bones are dangerous as the can splinter inside your dog &/or cause
a compacted bowel. Very painful experience for the pup & expensive for you at the vet.
Always have a fresh supply of water freely available
Serve all food at room temperature
Reduce to two meals per day at around 12 weeks of age. By 6 Months of age one meal per day is sufficient.
Make sure that the pup always has a thin layer of fat covering the ribs.
From around 9 - 12 months of age (at which time the dog will have reached its’ full height & length), it is important NOT to let your Labrador start becoming overweight but a healthy dog will be well covered (i.e. a thin layer of fat over the ribs).
If you do allow your pup to become obese, it will adversely affect the skeletal system & joints irreparably.
Is it recommended that you visit your veterinary clinic every couple of months to keep an eye on your puppies weight.
F 6 months = up to 15kg 12 months = up to 25kg 2 years = up to 30kg
M 6 months = up to 20kg 12 months = up to 30kg 2 years = up to 35kg
FLEA & TICK CONTROL
We STRONGLY recommend Bravecto !!!
Ticks mostly occur around the face & chest area (check eyelids, lips, inside ears etc) but can occur anywhere on the body including between the toes SO CHECK THOROUGHLY.
If you live in a tick area & your pup goes off his/her food or starts to wobble in the back legs or behaves as if choking GO STRAIGHT TO YOUR VET.
NEVER TAKE THE WAIT & SEE APPROACH. YOU RISK LOSING YOUR PUP.
BATHING YOUR PUPPY
During colder whether only bath on a sunny day & in the morning. If your pup stays wet & gets
cold you will have a sick puppy on your hands.
Only use Shampoos & Conditioners specifically designed for puppies as human products can cause
skin upsets due to different ph levels. Skin problems can cost you an arm & a leg at your vet.
If you follow our recommendation of Bravecto you will only need to use mild products such as
Aloveen Shampoo & Conditioner, a lovely product based on oatmeal.
Do not use harsh metal brushes on your pups’ tender skin. He/she is only a baby.
Do not over bath your puppy or you will wash out all the naturally occurring oils.
Only bath in lukewarm water & be careful not to get water/shampoo in ears & eyes.
Dry off well, especially around face, behind & inside ears, under arms to prevent chills.
Have fun, keep talking to him/her, reassure the pup that all is well. Never scold the pup.
PUPPY PRE SCHOOLS, run by reputable veterinary clinics, are strongly encouraged.
This not only provides basic training but also continuing socialisation skills which are so necessary to your
pups’ overall welfare & to become a valued member of your family.
It is also a lot of fun for you!
NB> DO NOT START YOUR PUPPY UNTIL AT LEAST ONE WEEK AFTER HIS/HER 2ND VACCINATION.
Your pup only has 60% coverage against Parvo after the 1st vaccination & puppies come from lots of
different kennels/areas to preschool. If just one has the Parvo viris the whole class will contract this incidious
& deadly disease.
Puppy will have nearly 100% coverage if your vet administers the Norivac Triennial vaccine at 10 weeks.
Whereas a normal C3 vaccine will only cover 80% after the 2nd vaccination.
Remember, in any case, you must wait at least one full week after each vaccination for it to take affect.
As joints of growing pups are easily injured, until your pup is at least 18 months of age:
1. Never let your puppy jump from a height higher than it’s own shoulder height.
2. Be careful of stairs. A pup can easily break a leg if he/she falls off or through a
3. Never let your puppy jump into or out of a car or trailer.
4. Do not run your puppy ragged. Just a little walk or run is fine.
5. Never pick up your puppy with his/her front legs. Place one hand under rump &
the other under the pups’ chest to lift.
6. Avoid repetitive play that causes your puppy to run & brake (such as fetching a ball) as
this can cause repetitive strain injury to your pups’ tender joints & damage them for
7. When taking the dog to the park or beach etc. ALWAYS have the dog on a lead to prevent
him/her bounding around unrestrained.
Keep you pup off the soft sand as it gives way under their feet & can cause straining on the joints.
Wet sand is ok.
Puppies are like toddlers, they have lots of energy, are fearless & clumsy so can easily get themselves
into difficulty, so it is up to us to be responsible for their
development & safety.
BITING OR MOUTHING BEHAVIOUR
If your puppy begins a habit of biting or mouthing the hand etc of a particular family member,
use strong vocal discipline, ie. Short, loud, gruff, deep ‘NO’. This can lead to dominance behaviour
as the pup gets older if not dealt with early.
Rather than offering puppy an open hand of fingers, make a fist & if pup bites say NO or AA or SS (whatever
your noise is).
If pup continues to bite give a gently but sharp tap on the nose & when puppy starts to lick, PRAISE using his/her
Make sure that no member of the family is counteracting the discipline by encouraging the
wrong type of play & sending the pup mixed messages.
MICROCHIP PAPERWORK & REGISTRATION WITH YOUR LOCAL COUNCIL.
The paperwork you have filled out will be sent to the Animal Registry on your behalf & you will
then receive a fresh set with the dog legally in your name.
This fresh set of paperwork should be taken to your local council before the pup is 6 months of age
so that the pup is registered.
This is a legal requirement.
You will receive a fresh set of Microchip paperwork from the Registry with you attached to the microchip
on the database as the pups' legal owner.
If you have followed our recommendation & have had your puppy desexed at 5 months of age, you
will need to take this paperwork, along with the sterilisation certificate from the vet, to council & your
registration fee will be much cheaper for you.
DESEXING YOUR PUPPY
We strongly recommend that you desex your puppy, we advise that this be done at 5 months of age.
YOUR PEDIGREE PAPERWORK will be posted to you when it it processed by the Canine Council.
We would appreciate a call from you within the first few days of taking your new
Puppy home so that we know he/she is settling in well for you.
If you have any concerns, please contact us immediatley so we can advise you the way forward.
PROBLEMS WITH THE PLUMBING
ie. Toilet training
Often the first question we are asked when clients bring a young puppy for training is
'What is the secret of successful house training. They have tried smacking the pup when
it wets in the house, rubbing its nose in its droppings, and putting paper down on the laundry
floor all to no avail. There are no magic remedies, but there is a simple and effective teaching
process which will bring about speedy results.
The need to urinate or defecate is as natural a function for dogs as it is for humans.
It takes a long time to toilet train a baby, yet puppies are expected to know what to do
almost immediately! At eight weeks old a puppy has little bladder or bowel control but
it will develop them rapidly over the next couple of months. To teach or condition a puppy
to eliminate in a correct area we need to know two things, that is, the natural behaviour of
wolves and dogs.
Remember that if we reinforce or reward a response such as urinating outside with something
which is important to the puppy such as a piece of food, then the puppy will tend to respond by
urinating outside again when it is stimulated by a full bladder.
House training should start the moment you arrive home with your puppy so that you avoid
having any 'accidents' right from the beginning. We suggest that you start before you even
enter the house by taking the puppy to the area you want it to use. Let it explore the area and,
if it obliges buy urinating or defecating, praise it and give it a small piece of food.
Incidentally the spot that you choose for the toilet area should not be too far from the
house as you wouldn’t want to walk too far on cold wet nights!
Now take your pup inside and follow these instructions:
1. Set your watch or alarm clock to ring in one hour. When the time is up, walk your puppy
outside to 'the same area' and stay there for five minutes or so. If it urinates or defecates, praise it
and give it a small piece of food, then take it inside and set your alarm for another hour, and so on.
If your puppy does not oblige during the five minute period, take it inside but go out ten minutes later
and keep doing this until your patience is rewarded. You will quickly work out your puppy's own rhythm.
2. Also, take the puppy out as soon as it wakens from sleep, after eating or drinking and when it has
been chewing on a toy or after prolonged play.
3. Watch its body language carefully for any signs which may indicate a need to go out.
Circling and sniffing are often signs that it wants to go to the toilet.
* REMEMBER - PERSEVERANCE IS THE KEY ….. NOT INTOLERANCE
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